A friend of mine who had recently returned from spending three months in Italy had a pretty wild declaration: he hadn’t had a pizza in the Old World better than the one at Heritage. It’s not entirely surprising to those who’ve had the pies here, which came about when chef Rino Cerbone perfected the dough recipe he learned in his family’s pizzeria to create his own version. Cerbone, who has a side hustle fronting a rock band, isn’t just a one-hit-wonder with those pies because his pasta and Italian-inspired dishes also sing, especially a baked razor clams dish that’s reason enough to come.